Front Lights are done


Been kinda messing around with the old ’69 Chevy and got the front lights all working. Not hard work but I did learn a couple of things. But first….this is what I took out…..this hacked up mess left behind by the previous owners. I have seen worse, and they at least put all this together and it was working. Mainly all I had was bulbs out in the front, but wanted good wiring so I replaced the front light wiring harness. The green piece you see is actually a garden hose, which had wires running though it. It worked to keep the wires from flopping all over, so it was safe…….but not really great. I also found a wire going to nothing, so it came out. I still have a red wire in the truck attached to the fuse box which I need to take out since it also goes to nothing.

But I now have the wires in correctly. I also have to replace the front engine wiring harness….Post that later. This picture also has the old radio and speakers that I also took out included in the pile of stuff going to the trash. 20180504_175438

After putting the harness in, I had to get new bulbs. Since I upgraded the side markers to have lights in them, instead of just reflective markers I had to get the right bulbs. After getting them and testing them they were too dim for my liking. So I got a bigger brighter bulb. This turned out to be a mistake, as the bulb touched the plastic marker and melted it a little. So that is a no go…….back to the parts store and new technology to the rescue…..LED bulbs. They are bright and produce NO heat. So this is the result.

New Front marker installed…..

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New Front marker with light on…..

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New turn signal markers in front grille installed and headlights on.

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So all is working up front and in the back. Good thing about the new wiring harness along with turning the side markers in lights side markers, they also blink with the turn signals…..safer. But, I did have another small problem. Since I am using a combination of LED and non LED bulbs when I turned the turn signals on for the first time they flashed rapidly. Not horrendously fast….but faster than normal. So….back to the parts store. I had to get a new type of flasher module….(hmmmmm sounds like Ray Stevens could make a song out of that, maybe the Streaks brother). It fixed the problem like a charm. Will post a pic of the new module soon.

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Here is the new Flasher relay. This little thing is what makes your turn signals flash. There is a metal strip inside the reacts to the current that lights the bulb and the heat that current makes. The heat bends the wire slightly and that in turn breaks the loop…..so the light goes off. When it cools it goes back on. Happens pretty rapidly….so you get a flash. 

This is made to work with LED lights and regular ones. It stops the hyper-flashing I spoke of before. So now the flash happens at a lot less current and a lot less heat. 

So….three trips to the parts store, but all is working.

Here is the difference in the bulbs. The regular glass bulbs are 161 type. If you went to a parts store and asked them for bulbs this is what you would get more than likely they are 2.7 watts and not very bright, plus they HOT when lighted. Here is one of the bulbs: 

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The new battery is photo-bombing here.

The LED bulbs are listed as 194 cool white bulbs and even though they only put out .5 watts, they are much brighter. So, benefits are LED’s – brighter with no heat made by the bulb. So, if you add up I replaced 4 traditional bulbs at a total of 10.8 watts and the four LED bulbs use 2 watts so I am removing that load off the battery and alternator. Drawback is that the LED bulb is about $14 for a pack of 2….traditional bulbs are a couple bucks for 2. But, I feel its worth it. I wanted good light and no risk of melting the lenses. Here is the LED bulb: 

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Next on the list is a complete flush of the cooling system and unfortunately a new radiator. Current one is seeping a little. Also a new heater core. This project will be a complete flush of the system. I will have to drain all the antifreeze….replace with water….add a chemical flush component….run the truck for about a 1/2 hour to an hour each day over the course of three or four days to simulate driving it to circulate the chemical flush and drain and refill until I get totally clear water out. After that I will install the new radiator. I want it all clean so no junk gets into the new radiator.

So…..check back for that project. It should be fun since its getting hot in Tennessee. Its July. 

Mikey

Spring /Summer Update


Good news and bad news. Good news is that the 69 Chevy is now completely mine, not the bank’s. I paid of the signature loan last month. YEAH!!!

Bad news is……I need a new lawn mower and a new roof on the house. Lawn mower has been bought and roof goes on in a few weeks. Probably not much work will be done on the old truck this year. But I will try and focus on getting the garage really. With lights, new toolbox and storage areas. Got me down….but it had to be done. Will post progress as it happens. 

Just have to work on paying these items off as soon as I can.

Since this is a blog about restoring a Classic truck. Delays happen. So I will be sharing those as well.  

New Shingles go on the roof tomorrow, if the weather holds out. It has rained here a lot over the past few weeks, and its bad news. I now have a couple of stains inside my house. I am so glad the new shingles are going on tomorrow. Will post pics before and after. I hate this will prevent me from doing much on the old truck. But I hope to get a few things done. 

Roof update: Its done. Crew did a good job. House looks so much different. Here are the before and after: 

Before:

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Note: I thought I had caught a UFO….see the pole sticking up in the top pic. Not in the second. I was further back on my driveway and caught a pole in the neighborhood behind me. Darn…..I wanted to be on the news with some bubba teeth in talking about the aliens. 

Front After: WP_20170526_16_18_02_Pro

Back After: WP_20170526_15_18_49_Pro

Now…I need to get new front shutters (black) and a new white door in the carport. I want all the red gone. But, that is later. 

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New Shutters ! Put the new shutters on. Looks a lot different than before the work. I am pleased. Also you can see I got the garage cleaned. Need to get that red door replaced sometime. 

Roof is paid off……:)

My Old Mongoose BMX Bike


Not related to the Old Truck…but I have gotten down my old BMX bike I had in Florida and am restoring it. Its about time to do it. Not sure if I will keep it or not but am going to redo it as best I can. I have it broken down and will be getting the school to repaint the frame and other components as close to original as they can match. I found reproductions of the old stickers online. I am in the process of cleaning up the old bearings to see if they can be re-used. I plan on using as much original as I can.

The wheels are in the garage and I will get pics up of these soon. I am going to try and restore them myself. Although I can’t true them up. I don’t have the equipment or the knowledge. Here are some pics of the broken apart bike. The forks are already at the school to be sandblasted and repaired. I will update more when things get done. This is not a rush project though.

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Handlebars and goose-neck

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Original Crank

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Bike parts

Well the Handlebars, goose-neck, forks and the frame are at the school ready to get sandblasted and repainted. Told them not to rush so it could be a few weeks until they get to it, since they are busy with cars. But, I have tried to clean up all the parts I have here at the house. I worked on the chain sprocket tonight. This is just a first cleaning. I will try and polish it with super fine steel wool tomorrow. Compared to it uncleaned its a lot better. But I am still not sure I will be able to save it.

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Update: See Below: Headset Bearings can’t be re-used. They are in to bad of a shape and will not run smooth. Couple Bearing Balls are missing and the races are warped. This was due to the forks not being true at the top. Hopefully the welding shop at the school will be able to fix that. So I will need new bearings. So…I will measure and try and find.  

Update: As stated below I will be using the NOS Ashtabula forks instead of the ones I had. They were welded wrong years ago, and not true at the top. They have been disposed of. 

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Update See Below: These are the Crank or Bottom-set bearing. I think I will be able to re-use these. 

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Update See Below: Well…this speaks for itself. These are the headset bearing cups. Pretty much too rusted. Left one…..might be ok. Right one too far gone. They could be restored…but that is not cost effective. It would cost too much to re-chrome such a small piece. Chroming has gotten real expensive….THANK YOU E.P.A.! But I might gather up all my salvageable parts and see if a local re-chroming place could do them with a lot of other peoples small parts and then it could be reasonable. 

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Well…got the wheels out and removed the old dry rotted tires. They are in pretty bad (rusted) shape, as you can see by the pics. I will have to see about getting them stripped and re-chromed. Disappointing that I can’t do it, but the chrome is flaking off. I will update as I get info. 

Update: Found out today that a re chroming place will do these wheels for $65 for each wheel. That is just for the wheel rim,  I will have to remove the spokes. But getting new ones anyway. It is recommended if you ever take spokes out that are this old….replace them due to metal fatigue. Also have to tell them they will have to be completely stripped down to bare metal. Will see what their process is and update everyone. 

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Right now I just want to get the frame done. I have new decals coming and the school is going to re-paint, install decals and clear over them so they never come off. Can’t wait to see it when its done.

Update: The frame has been sandblasted. They are trying to get a good paint match to the original color. I have gotten my decals…see below. Unfortunately I won’t be able to get the decals clear coated over. The type of material they are made of will not allow us to do that. But, hopefully they will stick as good as the originals. 

Reproduction decals: 

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Update: Frame getting sandblasted (at school) in preparation for new paint and stickers. Two layers of paint coming off, the left side of the frame is bare metal. It looks kinda satin like due to the sandblasting process. A little steel wool and it will look more like raw metal. Then I will check the frame for cracks..none seen so far. I believe the frame to be in excellent shape. Then it will be painted and stickers (above) put on. Then some new parts (bearing cups) and the foundation will be there. Next will be wheels, I am going to get a spoke key and remove the spokes from the wheels so they can get re-chromed. Update you soon. 

Update: Got the spoke key but spokes still will not come out. I think I need another tool. Right now, just want to get the frame and forks done. 

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Update: The frame has been painted. See picture below. Just waiting for the decals to be applied. Looks good, can’t wait for the decals to get on. 

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Below you will see the new (NOS) stands for New Old Stock Ashtabula (forge name) forks I bought. New Old Stock means that these forks were never sold, but manufactured back in 1978, date stamp is on them. This is actually the correct year for my original bike. So….they are New (never used) Old (manufactured long time ago), Stock…someone had these in stock at a bike shop or somewhere and they never got sold. They have never been installed to a BMX bike. This is a great find…but they are not exactly as mine where on my bike originally. But I have a plan. Here is the ones I just bought.

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The little white specs are actually sparkles in the finish. The Ashtabula forge that made these used this finish. Its was called “Black Magic”. Ashtabula made bike parts for years…mostly Schwinn but a lot of other. Sad they shutdown in 1982 after decades. They used to make forged metal bows for the top on horse drawn carriages and later convertible tops for the early cars. 

These are the ones they made for BMX bike with the extra gusset at the top for strength, since most Schwinn’s did not go off road at the time this was needed for the BMX bikes.

These forks are built really strong and that finish is really durable. But…to care for them its a little weird. You need to oil them…yup rub motor oil on them. The sparkle will diminish, but they are protected. These forks I just bought are sparkling a lot…so they need some oil. I will do that after I get the milling work done on them. 

This is what my originals looked like (not mine, found pic on Internet) see the Ashtabula stamp. I am going to get the machine shop at the school to try too duplicate this stamp that is one each side. I hope it will turn out. Very hard to find a stamped Ashtabula fork in the first place and one that is not super over priced is even harder. 

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Hopefully soon I will be able to update you with a picture of the completed restored frame with the forks mounted. Then it will on to the wheels. I am still looking for correct handlebars like I had. I made a bid  on some on E-bay but lost the auction. 

Rear Lights Wiring harness in…


Got the new harness and got it installed. That is good news. I had to get a wire coat hanger and straighten it and use it as a hook to pull the wires thru. Here are some pics.

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Found out that the left side must have been pushed in….in a accident probably. You can kinda see this in the gap on the left one compared to the right. Its bigger. If you saw in in person you would also see the edge of the light opening is curved out. Kinda hard to see in the pictures. Looks like someone replaced the bedside because I do not see any bondo or repair. But, it could be well hidden. Well when the media blasting happens on the bed all will be revealed. I still have to get the rear backup lights (you can see the old cruddy one on the bumper in the top right picture), that is what the green wire goes too, but I have the tail-light housing already. I will be ordering the lenses, backup lights and bulbs next week and will have these in and working in a couple weeks. I really hate putting those new lamp housing on a rusty bed…..but I know later it will all come out and the bed will be like new.

I found the hole up in the frame that is for routing the side marker light wire. Great that is was already there, so I don’t have to drill one. 

New lights are in the rear. Here are some pics.

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New Side Light

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Old side marker (reflector)

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Lights on!

Update……got all the lights working you can see the backup lights and taillights are working and now have got the rear side-marker lights working. So the rear is done….other than the licence plate lights.

Moving onto the front lights. Consisting of the Parking lights and side-markers to side marker lights just like the rear and headlights. 

Update 10/5/2017: I was able to order the rest of the items needed to get the front lights working. I will post pics and the process next week when I start this work. It should not take too long. 

Some C-10’s out there


Here are some pics of some c-10’s that show how some people are doing restores and resto-mods.

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Pretty much stock 1970 c-10

This one is pretty much a stock look. Has the same trim on the sides that mine has. But has the area between the trim painted white. This was an original option.

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Resto-Mod

Looks to be a ’67 or ’68 resto-mod. But a lot of people like to put a ’68 grille on the ’69 to ’72 trucks. I think I am going to keep the ’69 grille, but I could go to this look.  Has new wheels and is lowered, but not slammed to the ground. This truck either did not have the side trim or the owner decided he did not want it. It does give a sleeker look, but right now I think I will be keeping the side trim on mine. I just don’t know if I want the white in the middle or all the same color or maybe white on the bottom.

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Resto-Mod short bed

This one is a short-bed looks to be a ’69, but you get the idea when the white is on the bottom. This person left the lower portion of the side trim….but deleted the top. Kinda like this look….but I want to retain all my trim. But, this may be a way to get the more modern sleeker look and retain some of the original trim.

Of course painting is years down the road yet.  

Resto-Mod vs. Restoration


I am doing a resto-mod on my truck. Some of you might what to know what that means. Here is a good definition I found: 

Resto-mod vs Restore

What is the difference between resto-mod and restoration? And which is the better option for your automotive? It is true that the two terms often cause confusion, but the explanation is fairly straightforward.

  • Restoration essentially refers to taking a great classic car and bringing it back to life with all (or most) of the original factory parts. The process involves repair of the visible parts (e.g., body trim, interior, etc.), as well as the parts not easily seen (e.g., electrical, suspension, brakes, etc.). The result is a beautifully preserved automobile in factory-new condition with authentic parts – just like it came off the showroom floor decades ago.
  • Resto-mod (restoration + modern parts/technology) draws from all the amazing advancements in automobile technology over the past 40+ years to enhance the performance, comfort and safety of the classic car. A resto-mod car has the timeless appearance of the original, but the outdated guts of the car have been replaced with the more modern, high-performance parts of today. You achieve the same great look, but your vintage car will be revved up with all the latest bells and whistles to create a much better ride for the owner

So…..that is pretty much what I will be doing. I might not be able to do as many bells and whistles as a Chip Foose built machine…you should really look up his resto-mods, they are amazing. But. I will be doing a few. Also, some things just to make the appearance of the truck a little sleeker and fun. 

Michael

Working again….


I’m Back…………Well had a few things come up that I have not worked on the ’69 at all, for a couple months. I did have my daily driver (’02 Dakota), break on me. Had to replace the radiator filler and radiator cap, lucky that the hoses were fine. Got that fixed and went ahead and did a tune up on it.

But, that’s ok. On the ’69 I have shifted to trying to get the rear wiring and lights to all work, this week. I have someone trying to track down a steering column in good shape at the moment, so that will be later. I have the new wiring harness and will be planning it out and trying to get the wiring replaced this week. So I will be posting that process and pictures will be coming.

Update- Well got out there today and inspected how to get out the old wiring and get the new stuff put in. I noticed the connection to the rear backup lights is different than the new wiring harness has. So, I have an e-mail in to the place I ordered it from trying to make sure I will be able to use the new wiring. It looks as if I will but want to make sure. 

Here is what I will be replacing: 

Left is the new wiring. Middle /Right are the old lamp housings. Have new ones for the brake lights (below) and have to order the backup lights (top). 

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New Lamp Housings

Here are the new lamp housing side by side with the old ones. I will be painting the new ones white to maximize the glow that will be seen. The side marker at the top is just that a reflective marker. The new wiring harness has been updated to include a bulb so this side marker will light up RED like new trucks do today. FIRST UPGRADE to the old ’69……many more to come. 

Check back next week.

Mike

Steering Column


Well…Now that the seat is in I started thinking about getting the shifting problem fixed. This problem is that shifting is very loose. You barely touch the column shift and it moves. I am trying to get this truck dive able so I can get my daily driver in for so some work can be done. 

I started inspecting the shifting mechanism at the bottom of the steering column and its completely wore out. You can tap the shifter bar and it falls though the gears. So….I will have to replace the steering column, since the parts inside the column are unavailable.  I was going to do this anyway….just did not want to do it this soon. 

So…………………..this will be delayed. On to reworking the lights I will update you.

Troublesome Seat


I ran into some trouble getting the repaired seat back in. The mounting bolt holes for the seat brackets obviously had not had bolts in them for some time. So I have to clean them out. Here is how I did it and got all eight bolts in.

Here is the bolt mounting hole that is located inside the cab. I suspected it was full of rust.

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So I cleaned it out with a spiral wire brush, I just ran the brush into the hole like I was threading it and then soaked it afterwards with penetrating oil.

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After that the bolt went it, not like it was new or anything but much easier. This is not a permanent fix. When the cab gets media blasted (I will type up a explaination of this in a later post)…..I plan on replacing the nut on the backside. That is really all there is on the backside is a welded nut on the bottom of the floor. It will then be like new.